L'ORMARINS BRUT CLASSIQUE NV MAGNUM (1.5Lt)

Clean, crisp lemon sherbet zest and biscuit nose. The palate follows the same track: vibrant, crisp, clean and tangy with bright freshness. Focused and poised with gentle but beguiling flavours of succulent lemon sherbet and understated trace of orange marmalade before a richer, rewarding, broad creamy toast, biscuit and brioche note from time on lees becomes apparent. Persistent dry tail.

Tendrils of smoke drift over blueberry and plum fruit with an understated touch of cocoa on the nose. There’s an affability and approachable ease to the palate. Lively and fresh with the same plum and berry fruit the nose promised. Juicy and vibrant, a light trace of dark cocoa powder lends richness and nuance. The body is gently yielding but boasts a nice firm frame and oodles of textural appeal.

A gentle florality adds to the more prominent stonefruit and light touch of honey on the nose. The mouth delivers a veritable fruit salad: flavours of melon, nectarine, quince and apricot intermingle seamlessly. Delightful succulence and freshness from appropriate acidity but there is a broad, creamy lees undertone that adds texture and breadth to the tasty mouthful. Good composure and structure only add to the enjoyment, as does a delicate citrus pith nuance which is apparent on the long, lingering aftertaste.

Softly attractive strawberry and raspberry aromas with a subtle floral fringe that complements its pale pink shade. The palate is fresh and juicy with a gentle citrus tang perfectly offset and balanced by the rounded berry compote flavours. There’s even an exotic suggestion of Turkish Delight. Appealing in its succulence and vibrancy, it has good body and presence. It’s no will o’ the wisp: it has substance and good length.